How To Use A Muslin To Improve Your Sewing

There was a time that I would never even have considered taking the time to make a muslin. I used to think it was a waste of time (and resources). Then for one particular project I decided to go ahead and make one, just to make sure I got the fit I wanted. It was during that time that I understood the importance of what can be a crucial step in the sewing process. While I don’t do this for everything, I do make them for certain projects. So today I want to share with you how you can use a muslin to improve your sewing projects. My process is always the same regardless of the garment.

I made a muslin to make this pair of pants from this wax print fabric that I didn’t want to mess up.

Use an inexpensive fabric for your mock-up

The process started with making a mock-up/muslin of the pattern. I use actual muslin fabric (cotton, unbleached). That’s just my preference and I usually buy it by the bolt. I often make muslins for pants and jackets (patterns I haven’t made before).

For this particular pair of pants shown above, I didn’t bother with the length. Pants length is not usually an issue for me. But one thing I do for pants in particular, is to add the zipper! I noticed how the pants fit so much better when I added the closure.

Game changer: Adding the zipper where required gives me a true assessment of the fit!

And since getting a good fit is the point, take the time to include a closure in your mock-up. I machine baste all seams. It’s a very quick process to take it apart when I need to.

The process…

The picture above is another pair of shorts. I use Sharpies to mark each pattern piece. I add closures (with the exception of buttons) and work out any fit issues. After trying on the muslin or mock-up again, I can make sure the fit is as I want it. I transfer the changes to the paper pattern piece (it makes things easier for me when I want to make another) and cut out my fashion fabric. Although this may seem like a lot of time, it generally takes me about an hour or two to get the fit – and I’m a slow sewer.

This doesn’t have to be done in one sitting either. Pace yourself and do what you can with the time you have available. You can read my post here about improving productivity. The final garment is sewn much faster because I don’t have fit issues. Construction issues/challenges are also worked out during this process.

Some people recycle their muslins by using them for other projects. I will keep them if it’s for a jacket. Generally I only attach one sleeve since I don’t have issues with arm/bicep size, but they are a good reference for me when I want to make another.

Here is a good article that gives some basic things to consider when deciding to make a muslin yourself here.

So basically, that’s how the process works for me. Remember, when you make a muslin, you are only sewing the “outside” pieces. You’re not sewing in the details of the garment. Some people do like to use the muslin as the pattern, but as I stated, I like to transfer any changes to the paper pattern. I also make notes on the instruction sheet if I want to change the order of construction.

Do you make a mock-up of your garments as a part of your process? Let me know. I know a lot of people hate it 😂, and I can understand that.

As always, keep on sewing…

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Style Arc Kerry Cargo Pants

I have had this pattern for quite a while (so many of my posts start out with those words. That’s what happens when you buy patterns all the time). I wanted a pattern that would give me the traditional look of a cargo pant, but still be stylish. this was the one I chose. I used a lightweight cotton blend for these pants.

If you’re not familiar with Style Arc patterns, they are out of Australia. They used to sell only single size patterns, but now I believe they offer multi-size patterns as well. This particular pants pattern was one size and fit (almost) perfectly! I made my usual adjustments of a wedge in the center back seam to lengthen it about 1″. Then lengthened in the front about 1/4″. I also narrowed the pants legs (they seemed really wide) from the knee down. Basically from the bottom of the side pocket down to the hem was taken in 1-1/2″ on each side. I did this after the pants were made because the muslin I made was a shortened version.

Other changes I made were not related to fit. I decided to use elastic in the waist rather than the drawstring. I also used Velcro on the pockets instead of buttons. I did not add the leg straps (to roll up the pants legs) on this pair.

The construction process was very easy, although as with many independent pattern companies, the instructions were minimal. That’s not a problem for me and shouldn’t be a deterrent for anyone wanting to try one of their patterns. I believe you only improve by practice and stretching yourself beyond what you think you can do.

This is what happens when you take a picture on a really humid day and you come from an air conditioned place!

I love that these pants have 3 sets of pockets – inseam, side, and back! I can definitely see myself making these from cotton twill (the recommended fabric) for the Fall. I could wear this with a jean jacket (which I don’t have but have a pattern and material for). This is a pretty easy and quick pattern to make.

Itch-to-Stitch Sequoia Pants and Shorts

This is a pattern I have been looking forward to making since it came out. I like the style (with lots of pockets) and I figured it challenge me in some ways to make. Plus, I like trying a variety of different pants patterns in particular since pants take more effort to fit comfortably.

I made a shorts version of this pattern (the PDF pattern includes shorts and pants). In all honesty, I was pleasantly surprised at the fit and comfort of the shorts. I have only used these patterns for tops before, so I was unsure of what to expect. I made very few adjustments to get the fit I wanted.

The first pair that I made was what I considered to be a wearable muslin.

The only thing that was different (at least for me) was the waist band construction. Thankfully, there’s additional help on a blog post with lots of photos that make it very clear and explain the written instructions. These patterns are pretty straight-forward with regard to instructions, so I that is something that I really appreciate. But, they are generally simple enough to understand for the beginner as well.

The second pair is made from stretch cotton twill that I had in my stash. I used snaps for the fly closure, but I did not add snaps to the back pockets as the pattern suggests. Once the edge-stitching was done on the top of the pocket flaps, I didn’t really find it necessary. But you could also use Velcro instead. The only change I made to this was to cut the waist band ribbing and elastic about an inch shorter. I wanted a bit tighter fit around the waist, and this worked out perfectly.

I definitely want to make the pants version in the Fall for cooler weather!

If you’re interested in getting this pattern, here’s a link you can use to buy your own PDF pattern!

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