How To Use A Muslin To Improve Your Sewing

There was a time that I would never even have considered taking the time to make a muslin. I used to think it was a waste of time (and resources). Then for one particular project I decided to go ahead and make one, just to make sure I got the fit I wanted. It was during that time that I understood the importance of what can be a crucial step in the sewing process. While I don’t do this for everything, I do make them for certain projects. So today I want to share with you how you can use a muslin to improve your sewing projects. My process is always the same regardless of the garment.

I made a muslin to make this pair of pants from this wax print fabric that I didn’t want to mess up.

Use an inexpensive fabric for your mock-up

The process started with making a mock-up/muslin of the pattern. I use actual muslin fabric (cotton, unbleached). That’s just my preference and I usually buy it by the bolt. I often make muslins for pants and jackets (patterns I haven’t made before).

For this particular pair of pants shown above, I didn’t bother with the length. Pants length is not usually an issue for me. But one thing I do for pants in particular, is to add the zipper! I noticed how the pants fit so much better when I added the closure.

Game changer: Adding the zipper where required gives me a true assessment of the fit!

And since getting a good fit is the point, take the time to include a closure in your mock-up. I machine baste all seams. It’s a very quick process to take it apart when I need to.

The process…

The picture above is another pair of shorts. I use Sharpies to mark each pattern piece. I add closures (with the exception of buttons) and work out any fit issues. After trying on the muslin or mock-up again, I can make sure the fit is as I want it. I transfer the changes to the paper pattern piece (it makes things easier for me when I want to make another) and cut out my fashion fabric. Although this may seem like a lot of time, it generally takes me about an hour or two to get the fit – and I’m a slow sewer.

This doesn’t have to be done in one sitting either. Pace yourself and do what you can with the time you have available. You can read my post here about improving productivity. The final garment is sewn much faster because I don’t have fit issues. Construction issues/challenges are also worked out during this process.

Some people recycle their muslins by using them for other projects. I will keep them if it’s for a jacket. Generally I only attach one sleeve since I don’t have issues with arm/bicep size, but they are a good reference for me when I want to make another.

Here is a good article that gives some basic things to consider when deciding to make a muslin yourself here.

So basically, that’s how the process works for me. Remember, when you make a muslin, you are only sewing the “outside” pieces. You’re not sewing in the details of the garment. Some people do like to use the muslin as the pattern, but as I stated, I like to transfer any changes to the paper pattern. I also make notes on the instruction sheet if I want to change the order of construction.

Do you make a mock-up of your garments as a part of your process? Let me know. I know a lot of people hate it 😂, and I can understand that.

As always, keep on sewing…

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