Twin Needle Stitching Tips

Not too long ago, I did a YouTube video on this process, but I also wanted to write a blog post. I want to give you readers some twin needle stitching tips. These are things I do myself that really help. Using a twin needle in your regular sewing machine can give a nice professional looking finish. I don’t have a coverstitch machine, so that is the reason I like this technique.

Twin Needles I Use

Schmetz twin needle 2.0/80
Schmetz twin needle 4.0/80

More often than not, I use the first twin needle pictured. I like the spacing of the needles and how the finish looks. I also get less tunneling (I’ll explain later).

When To Use Twin Needles

I use the twin needles for hemming knits and for stitching around necklines on knit tops. These tops were finished with a twin needle at the sleeve hems, bottom hem and around the neckline. It’s something I do for t-shirts especially. This is a way to get a nice looking finish on your knit projects.

Machine Settings

Some sewing machines will have special setting for using a twin needle. I have a Brother sewing machine that you must make sure to choose the twin needle, rather than single needle. If your sewing machine is like this (you can check your manual if you aren’t sure), be sure to make that change. You will also need to make sure that your stitch plate is not for a straight stitch only (it usually has only one narrow hole). Most regular needle plates have a wide opening that is good for straight, zigzag and twin needle stitching.

Stitching

Once everything is set, it’s time to sew! This is the fun part. You’ll need two spools of thread to thread the needles. If you don’t have two spools of the same color and you are trying to match your fabric, you can wind an extra bobbin. That bobbin can be your second spool. It’s important to note that all stitching is done from the right side of the fabric.

Twin needle examples

Here is an example I made using the two twin needles showing how the widths look compared to one another.

Twin needle width examples

For most of my sewing, I prefer the narrower needle. It’s just a personal preference but I think it looks good for most fabrics and projects. The tunneling I mentioned earlier is when a raised area (ridge) forms in between the two needles.

Trimming

After you’ve sewn your hem, there may be excess fabric on the wrong side. I usually fold up my hem and sew within that in order to make sure I’ve caught all the fabric (remember, stitching from the right side). I trim off the excess fabric using either duckbill scissors or curved scissors.

Duckbill scissore
Curved scissors

Here is a link to my YouTube video where I show the processI use for sewing and trimming when I use a twin needle.

*The above post contains affiliate links.

This is a process that will give you some really nice, professional looking results. It may take a bit of time and practice, but it’s an easy process.

Making A Classic Little Black Dress

I want to share making a classic little black dress with you. I haven’t made anything like this in ages, so I was happy to add something that I really needed to my wardrobe. For this project, I pulled out a pattern I’ve had in my stash for quite some time – Simplicity 1417.

Simplicity 1417 black dress front

This is a pattern from 2014, so it’s not terribly old (in my opinion). But the style is so classic that this can be made anytime.

The Pattern For The Little Black Dress

Simplicity 1417 is an OOP pattern that is one from their Amazing Fit line. It features princess seams, a slightly flared peplum, a waist seam, and pattern pieces for B, C, D cups. The point of these pattern details is to give the wearer some shaping and fit options.

There are also some sleeve options with a sleeveless, tulip sleeve, and cap sleeve. I made the cap sleeve option which is View B (and the one on the pattern envelope). This is the perfect pattern for making a classic little black dress.

Simplicity 1417 pattern envelope

Instructions are detailed for those who need extra fit advice or help. 1″ side seam allowances make fitting the dress an easy process.

My Dress

I used a linen rayon blend that I bought from Fabric dot com (it’s an Amazon company). There were no fit issues with mine, so it was an easy process. I did not make a muslin first because I really felt confident that I could get a great fit.

The main difference with min is that I attached to peplum to the outside of the garment, rather than attaching it in the seams (which is how it’s supposed to be done). Instructions call for the peplum to be lined, which is unnecessary. I do recommend that you read through the instructions first to be aware of the process.

S1417 back of my little black dress

Here is the YouTube video I did on this particular dress:

By the way, you should follow me on YouTube as well 😉.

This is definitely something I am so glad I made. I believe I can get a lot of use out of this dress.

Side view of Simplicity 1417
S1417 front

Here are some other recent dresses I’ve made.

*This post may contain affiliate links. Thank you for your support!

Springtime Jackets YouTube Video

This is about my springtime jackets YouTube video.

I filmed this video about a month ago and never got around to posting it. I had written the blog posts that feature these patterns earlier this year. The blog posts I wrote are here and here.

Here is a link to the Angela Wolf Chloe trench pattern.

Thanks for watching and, as always, I plan to keep sewing…